That was the first time I saw a horse start from a kneeling position!

  • -- Henny Youngman 汉尼杨曼

那是我第一次看到马从跪着的姿势出发!

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A lot of times I'll see guys who are nowhere near the level of the board they're riding. They might love surfing and love how it looks, but you really have to work your way up. It takes eating a little humble pie at first, and stepping back to equipment that might be a bit slow, but do it.

很多时候,我看到的人都没有达到他们所处的水平。他们可能喜欢冲浪,也喜欢冲浪的样子,但你真的必须努力向上。这需要在开始的时候吃一点谦卑的馅饼,然后回到可能有点慢的设备,但这样做。

It took me a long time to realise that I was a girl as a teenager. At that point I never really believed it. I looked like a boy for a long time. Now, finally, I feel like a woman.

我花了很长时间才意识到我十几岁时是个女孩。在那个时候,我从来没有真正相信过。很长一段时间我看起来像个男孩。现在,终于,我觉得自己像个女人了。