Surfing is such an amazing concept. You're taking on Nature with a little stick and saying, 'I'm gonna ride you!' And a lot of times Nature says, 'No you're not!' and crashes you to the bottom.
冲浪是一个非常棒的概念。你用一根小棍子挑战自然,然后说,‘我要骑着你!很多时候,大自然会说:“不,你不是!”然后把你摔到水底。
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